Typically people do maintenance on their aquariums at some set time interval. Some do it every week. And some do it every two months.
There typically are several items that make up maintenance:
- Water changes make up the bulk of time spent in aquarium maintenance.
- Many clean the gravel every water change, something I do not recommend
- Many clean or even replace their filter media every water change, which is a BIG mistake
- Many clean or replace the mechanical media in their filter every water change
- Some check the chlorine level in the tap water before every water change
- Some consider feeding part of maintenance.
- Almost everyone cleans off the front viewing area of algae once a week or even more
We cover the first four items in depth in separate articles in this chapter. We cover the last three items, chlorine, feeding and viewing area cleaning, in the paragraphs below.
Aquarium Maintenance and Stocking Ratio
Aquarium Maintenance can be a very simple topic or a very complex topic, depending on the aquarium stocking ratio. In nature, there is a very light stocking of fish in most freshwater systems. As a result, with light stocking, Mother Nature pretty much takes care of everything just fine.
With most aquariums with light stocking (4 grams of fish per gallon (4 liter)) of fish like angelfish and platies, one can simply do:
- a 50% water change every two months
- do no substrate vacuuming
- clean only the mechanical media in the filter once a week
- clean the algae off the front glass once a week
Probably 99% of all aquariums in the hobby are just fine with this regimen. But if one looks up stocking ratio apps and websites and does the inputs into those sites AND those sites say you are over 100% stocked or over, i.e. overstocked, AND you do not have a huge amount of biofiltration, one CAN have a problem.
If one uses a gravel substrate one CAN POSSIBLY develop low-grade bad organic compound emissions which create health problems with the fish. These problems include mycobacteriosis (“Fish TB”), bacterial infections, and hole-in-the-head. It is rare but here CAN be a general “failure to thrive” and odd behavior in fish. We go into this in some depth in this link
But it must be emphasized this is rare. It is not something for the average hobbyist to be concerned about.
How to Drop One’s Maintenance Time
HalfMan-HalfCichlid did an excellent video on how to reduce aquarium maintenance to a minimum. He had a large 300-gallon (1200-liter) tank and he timed his “conventional” maintenance as follows:
|Maintenance task||Standard maintenance|
|60% water changes||3 per month, 1 hour each|
|Water change drain rate||500 gal/hour, 2273 L/H|
|Gravel cleaning||Every other water change. 1 hour|
|Canister filter cleaning||5 canisters every two months, 1 hour each|
|Chlorine checks||Chlorine checks|
|Feeding||15 minutes each, twice daily|
This “standard maintenance” number is about three hours a week to maintain this aquarium. This is why many leave the hobby. “Standard maintenance” is just a pain in the butt.
So Halfman/Halfcichlid changed his routine. He added a pump for removing the water from his tank during a water change. He added an automatic feeder. He added a large sump with a refugium where plants grew. He added wavemakers. He added a carbon filter to the water line filling the aquarium during water changes. And he dropped his maintenance down to this:
|Maintenance task||Improved maintenance|
|60% water changes||1 per month, 1 hour each|
|Water change drain rate||1500 gal/hour, 6819 L/H|
|Wavemakers sweeping bottom of debris||No gravel cleaning|
|Sump filter cleaning||1 sump every two months, 30 minutes|
|Carbon water filtration||No chlorine checks|
|Automatic feeder||15 minutes once a week|
Note the “15 minutes once a week” with the automatic feeder is the fifteen minutes required to measure out the food and put it in the feeder. All these changes took the time down to about thirty minutes per week, an 83% reduction.
Now the author is a big believer in something called “drip water changes”. If one adds a drip water changer, an under gravel filter AND adds a no mechanical filtration fluidized K1 sump, one can go to virtually no maintenance per week.
|Maintenance task||Ultimate maintenance|
|Continuous drip water changes||No maintenance|
|Water change drain rate||Not applicable with drip system|
|Under gravel filter||No gravel cleaning|
|Sump filter cleaning||No mechanical filtration fluidized K1 bed with NO cleaning at all|
|Drip doesn’t need to worry about chlorine||No chlorine checks with drip system|
|Automatic feeder||15 minutes once a week|
All these measures can reduce maintenance by a huge amount. The only maintenance in the above scenario is feeding. That is it.
Many make keeping an aquarium an arduous time-consuming hobby. It simply doesn’t have to be that way.
Chlorine and Chloramine and Carbon
HalfMan/HalfCichlid recommends activated carbon to remove chlorine and chloramine. This is good advice IF AND ONLY IF one has only chlorine in one’s tap water. Activated carbon will rapidly convert chlorine to chloride by a process called “reduction” and the carbon will last for six months or so.
But chloramine is different. At the pH of most drinking water chloramine is only slowly reduced to ammonia and chloride (Bauer and Snoyeyink, 1973, Komorita and Snoeyink, 1985). The reduction is very slow (maximum of 0.3 gallons per minute (1 liter per minute) through three feet (90 centimeters) of carbon, per the article “Activated Carbon Filtration” DeSilva, 2000), which means it doesn’t work well for doing a water change (1 to 5 gpm and a few inches of carbon). Because the reduction generates ammonia and ammonia is a food source for bacterial growth, activated carbon beds reducing chlorine become “fouled” pretty rapidly and stop doing the reduction.
So if one has chloramines activated carbon is not an option. Currently, about 60% of the municipal water supplies in the USA use chloramine or a combination of chlorine and chloramine.
I found the old mechanical automatic feeders to be very dependable. They are simply mechanical clock mechanisms modified for use in an automatic feeder. But I have found the newer “solid-state” feeders to be very unreliable. I’ve now had several malfunctions and dumped a week’s worth of food into the aquarium. It is probably because programming them is a nightmare and I’m not tech-savvy enough to interpret what the instructions say, but so be it.
Now my aquariums have a HUGE amount of filtration so this dumping didn’t kill any fish or anything. But in most hobbyist tanks this will kill fish. So I do not recommend the newer automatic feeder designs.
Cleaning the Viewing Area
Cleaning the front acrylic panel or glass of algae is so automatic and casual that I often forget to add it to maintenance (an omission which I have made in the charts above… whoops). I use the magnetic glass cleaners but one can use a whole host of things to do it. Some even just use an old credit card. Others use razor blades. Some seem to like the white foam cleaners. Plastic pot scrubbers do the job very well.
Aquarium Maintenance in Depth
We go into all aspects of maintenance in the following links:
Source: Aquariumscience.org – David Bogert
Bijgewerkt op 11 September 2023 door John